A single cask Micro-Provenance Bruichladdich, bottled exclusively for Barrel & Batch, an Australian "whisky co-op" group sourcing exclusive and/or limited bottlings for their members.
A single cask Bruichladdich is always exciting, particularly when it's an official bottling from the distillery's "Micro-Provenance (pause for a breath) Cask Evolution Exploration" range of frosted-glass bottlings that are rarely seen in this part of the world. In fact we've only officially seen one of these previously, an Australian-exclusive Syrah red wine cask that was bottled at the end of 2019 and released here in mid-2020, which I've previously reviewed here. While that cask was exclusive to the Australian market as a whole, the bottling that we're looking at today was available from just one source, the Sydney-based "whisky co-op" group that is Barrel & Batch, a relatively new company that is importing and/or reselling exclusive and uncommonly seen whiskies & whiskeys to it's members. Barrel & Batch is entirely free to join, and this is not one of the subscription-type "services" where they automatically charge your credit card every month and send you whatever they're selling, unless you ask them not to by "opting out" in advance before the deadline. Instead this is a more conventional operation where they tell you about the product, and if you want it, you order it - a much better system if you ask me! The folks behind Barrel & Batch aren't newcomers to the scene, with organisers Ray & Simon being involved in the Sydney hospitality industry for a very long time, and being behind the popular Webster's Bar in Sydney's inner-west. The pandemic hasn't exactly been kind to hospitality venues and has killed off many of them, but Ray & Simon have adapted & overcome, with this new project keeping them busy. They already have some serious notches on their bedposts, with exclusive single cask official bottlings from the likes of Old Pulteney, Glenglassaugh, and even Jack Daniels, not to mention a number of independent bottlings and Australian whiskies, and of course this official bottling from Bruichladdich that we're looking at here. Crucially they also support their releases with online tastings and launch events, often with direct participation from the distillery / bottler so they have access to first-hand information. This Bruichladdich for example was officially launched with a physical tasting at Webster's along with a live appearance (via Zoom) from Chloe Wood, the distillery's Brand Ambassador for the Asia Pacific region, and none other than Adam Hannett, their Head Distiller. Not something you see everyday, and certainly not something that every distillery would do!
"Progressive Hebridean Distillers" Bruichladdich are certainly one of Islay's most popular producers these days, so this second Australian-exclusive single cask bottling is a great thing to see. It's also quite exciting because this bottling is from a first-fill ex-bourbon cask, rather than the wine casks that are the distillery's mainstay - particularly when it comes to their namesake unpeated spirit. Yes, there are plenty of ex-bourbon or refill cask independent bottlings, and the official bottlings of the distillery's main peated spirits (Port Charlotte and Octomore in particular) see bourbon cask versions on a more regular basis. But the unpeated stuff tends to be finished or fully-matured in wine or fortified wine casks, particularly in these Micro-Provenance single casks. Some may turn their nose up at an ex-bourbon cask bottling, particularly one of an unpeated whisky, but they are often a much better example when it comes to showing distillery character and spirit character, rather than a darker and more cask-forward whisky that will inevitably attract more attention. Bourbon casks also give the influence of the barley itself a better chance to survive the maturation period, which is something that Bruichladdich excel at with their fresh & coastal unpeated spirit. Now I heard comment recently, and I won't name names, that bourbon cask Bruichladdichs "just aren't that exciting". And I disagree, because they work brilliantly when done well. And some of my favourite unpeated Bruichladdichs of all-time, the 23-year old Golder Still (reviewed here) and a 15-year old private cask bottling that I'm yet to review - but it could well beat the Golder Still's score if I do - have both been from bourbon casks, and both were incredible whiskies. And when it comes to their younger and more regular ex-bourbon stuff I also very much enjoyed the Bere Barley bottlings from the last couple of years, and the old Laddie Sixteen really opened my eyes to unpeated Islays back in the day. This distillery certainly doesn't need a fancy wine cask to show us what it can do!
In the case of this Barrel & Batch exclusive single cask, this first-fill bourbon barrel bottling was distilled from barley of the Appaloosa variety (a modern high-yielding distiller's barley) grown on the Scottish mainland, and in this case it was organically grown barley, although that isn't mentioned on the label. Along with the likes of Deanston and Benromach, Bruichladdich are one of the main players in organic Scotch whisky, with an annual release of "Bruichladdich The Organic" that could be considered part of their core range. Does organic barley actually make much of a difference to the completed whisky? Like many points of contention with whisky, there are too many other factors involved to be able to definitively answer that in either direction. But certainly the examples of that aforementioned Organic release have been markedly different to the same distillery's Islay Barley, Bere Barley and Classic Laddie releases, regardless of the exact cause for those differences which would be due to multiple factors anyway. Interestingly though I do often find the Organic 'laddie releases to be drier in flavour - as in less sweetness - than most releases in the distillery's range, and I do find a similar dryness in this single cask release.
This Micro Provenance bottling, cask #1189, was distilled on the 31st of May 2010, fully matured in a first-fill ex-bourbon cask, and bottled on the 1st of June 2021 at a cask strength of 59.2% ABV, and of course is non-chill filtered and natural colour. It launched in Australia in October 2021, with a yield of 258 bottles. Pricing was quite reasonable at $220 AUD, around 10% less than the previous Australian exclusive Syrah cask which was six months younger - but wine casks don't always come cheap, and that one was over 62% ABV, so that slight price difference is very understandable. The sample for this review came from a generous fellow-whisky lover. Let's get to it!
Bottled for Barrel & Batch (Australia). Distilled May 2010, fully matured in a first-fill ex-bourbon barrel, bottled June 2021. Non-chill filtered, natural colour. 258 bottles.
Colour: Pale gold.
Nose: Attacks the nose hairs! Quite "nippy", even after breathing time. There's vanilla custard, a touch of honey, and dry malty cereals. Loads of barley character. Creamy apricot yoghurt, slightly floral with a touch of tinned peaches in light syrup. Some lightly toasted marshmallow, white pepper and dried lemon peel.
Texture: Medium-heavy weight. Big & oily. There's definitely spirit-y heat that turns a little astringent, but the oils carry it and it's more than bearable.
Taste: More vanilla custard and creamy apricot yoghurt, and more peaches in syrup. Then the dry cereals come through, oily with white pepper and dried lemon peel, turning slightly bitter.
Finish: Medium length. Noticeable spirit-y heat from initial swallowing that carries through the finish. But the creamy apricot yoghurt and peaches are there, alongside the drying malty cereals, earthy white pepper and a pinch of hot cinnamon.
Score: 3.5 out of 5. Towards the lower end of that scale, though.
Notes: It's a little rough around the edges and a little raw, but there's enough oiliness and barley character to pull it off, and a great balance between cask & spirit. The barley character shows through in spades, albeit in a drier style than expected, but as mentioned above I do find that dryness in the organic 'laddies as well, so it could be a common thread. The fruitiness in this single cask is lovely too, and it's all very Bruichladdich. Some of these younger Bruichladdichs do present as being quite hot, regardless of the cask type. It's still a rarity, but I do wonder if it's down to their high to very high filling strengths? Then again, plenty of distilleries are filling their casks at still strength these days, so perhaps not. Maybe it's just the luck of the draw like with many distilleries, and it shows a little more with lighter cask influences from bourbon barrels and the like. Although I've also had an independent bottling of an older first-fill sherry cask that was considerably hotter, so who knows!
It's great to see a second Micro-Provenance single cask make its way to Australia, so thanks to Ray & Simon from Barrel & Batch for making it happen! It was a great move going for a bourbon cask if you ask me. Bruichladdich fans love to see the distillery character shine through, and it's here in spades.
Cheers!
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