Octomore 2.2 Orpheus Whisky Review!

My original bucket list dram, my original holy grail whisky, and the starring whisky of my 40th birthday celebration - which is well behind us now! This was the third-ever Octomore official bottling, released nearly 16-years ago now. Seems a good way to celebrate this humble site passing one-million views - which is also well behind us now. I still had to mark the occasion!

Rare "bucket list" whiskies that we aim to tick off the wishlist before we kick the bucket. They're usually legendary bottles that we've seen or heard about online or in bars & bottle shops which are either relatively rare, or are beyond our personal reach at the time. All whisky nerds have at least one - more often many - of these that are ingrained in our brains from the early days of our whisky adventures. Our bucket lists are like a whisky bottle-shaped version of the Hydra from Greek mythology; you cut off one of the beast's heads only for two more to take its place. If a bottle on said list is actually available when it first catches our eye, then it's beyond our reach for some reason - either due to pricing or relative rarity, or both. Said whisky is then placed somewhere near the top of the bucket list in the hope that circumstances will change and we'll eventually get our hands on one. More often though we catch wind of a bottle while trawling online reviews & Instagram posts when we're first falling into the whisky rabbit hole, only to find that we've missed the boat and said whisky is already legendary, is only sporadically available on the secondary auction market, and is already selling for multiple-times its original pricing. Personally, the latter is far more common. When I fell into the rabbit hole properly around 2012-2013 there were three on my list; the original Ardbeg Supernova from 2009, Port Charlotte PC6, and Octomore 2.2 Orpheus. No prizes for guessing which were my two favourite distilleries back then! Those three bottles may seem like low-hanging fruit for the readers who have been deep in the whisky world for decades longer than I, but these bucket lists depend on when we are first engulfed by the obsession and what our circumstances are at the time. Over a decade later I've now been lucky enough to taste and own bottles of all three, and like the bottle-shaped Hydra mentioned above they've since been replaced on my bucket list by a myriad of others, most of which are rarer and much more valuable than those initial three. Regardless, I'm privileged to have tried them, and while not necessarily the "best" whiskies that I've tried so far on this adventure, none of the trio have been disappointing in any way. They've lived up to my high expectations - click the subsequent links for earlier reviews of 2009 Ardbeg Supernova, and for Port Charlotte PC6. 

The last of the three to be ticked off my original bucket list, and the last of the three to feature on this amateur whisky blog, is the legendary Octomore 2.2 Orpheus. This was the third official release of Octomore, following after 1.1 and 2.1, with 2.2 being bottled 16-years ago back in 2009. The inaugural Octomore 1.1 was released in 2008 in the opaque black bottle & tall black tin that are now iconic, while 2.1 landed roughly a year later with the same bottle design but in a rectangular cardboard box - the only boxed Octomore so far - and 2.2 Orpheus arrived in the same year in the regular black bottle but with some red labelling and a bright red tin - the only red-tinned Octomore so far. Right from the start the Octomore numbering system has remained the same, where the _.1 bottlings are ex-bourbon cask matured, and the _.2 are either partially- or fully-matured in ex-wine casks. Octomore 2.2 Orpheus was the first of these. The first _.3, denoting an Islay-grown barley release, didn't come around until 6.3 landed in 2014, and the first _.4, denoting either partial- or full-maturation in virgin oak casks, arrived with 7.4 in 2016. There have also been a few 10-year old releases, Feis Ile bottlings, "Futures" bottlings, and a couple of other special releases and single cask bottlings, but they've been excluded from the regular numbering system. 

The other numbers that everyone loves to hear about with Octomore are of course the ppm figures, which Bruichladdich successfully turned into an Islay arms race in the late 2010s. See here for more information, but as a brief reminder, these ppm figures are a measure of the phenolic content (speaking very broadly; the level of peat and/or smoke) in the freshly peat-smoked malted barley, measured in parts-per-million. This does not reflect the phenolic content of the distilled spirit or the final whisky, with every subsequent step in the process - from milling to maturation and everything in between, will reduce that figure - the generally accepted rule of thumb is that around 60-70% of the phenolic content is lost, but with Bruichladdich using longer fermentation and narrow cuts in tall stills, that would likely reduce even further, not to mention maturating in active casks. Which is why most Octomores are bottled at only 5-years of age; to keep more of the phenols intact. Another important reminder is that Bruichladdich don't use Islay peat in their whiskies, they use mainland peat in all expressions including the Islay barley releases, where the Islay-grown barley is shipped to the mainland for malting at Bairds in Inverness. This mainland peat gives different flavours than Islay peat would, generally more earthy and less medicinal, but don't get me wrong, these are still very peaty whiskies! Ppm figures for the earlier Octomores were huge compared to all competitors at the time - the barley for 1.1 was peated to 131 ppm, and both 2.1 and 2.2 were peated to 140 ppm, while the highest competitor, Ardbeg Supernova, was "over 100 ppm". Since those early days Bruichladdich have dwarfed their own figures with 309.1 ppm in Octomore 8.3 (reviewed here), 307.2 ppm in 15.3, and 258 ppm in 6.3 (reviewed here). 

Octomore 2.2 Orpheus was the first to feature ex-wine casks, which were a staple at Bruichladdich back then, just as they are now, but they were far less common in Scotch whisky in general back in the late 2000s. For 2.2 Orpheus the entire batch was finished for an undisclosed period in ex-red wine casks, but these weren't just any wine casks. Unlike today, back then Bruichladdich were happy to disclose the source/s of their wine casks for each release, often naming the individual wineries on the packaging. For Octomore 2.2 those were ex-red wine casks from legendary French winery Chateau Petrus, which dates back to 1837 and is located in the Pomerol area of the Bordeaux wine region. Petrus wines are predominantly made from Merlot grapes and are among the most expensive wines in the world, ranging from thousands of dollars at retail to hundreds of thousands of dollars at secondary auction. While we're talking prices, Octomore 2.2 currently ranges from £500 to £700 at the largest online auction in the UK, with a bottle appearing in their monthly auctions roughly 3-4 times a year. That hammer price would easily equate to over $2,000 AUD once landed here in Australia. Closer to home you're looking at $1,500 AUD at auction plus the 10% buyer's premium and postage, but there's only been one bottle listed for sale in the last two years. That's quite an expensive 5-year old whisky, particularly one that was bottled "only" 16-years ago, and with a large release of 15,000 bottles. Octomores aren't cheap whiskies, and Orpheus is the most legendary of the early releases, probably more so than the inaugural 1.1 release. My bottle of 2.2 is now empty, but I was lucky enough to have the tin signed by Jim McEwan on his most recent visit to Australia, which you'd think would make it harder for me to open the bottle - but no! The ABV for 2.2 Orpheus was 61.0%, and it is of course non-chill filtered and natural colour. The name "Orpheus" refers to a hero from Greek mythology, a magical singer, poet, and musician, who travelled to the Underworld in an attempt to rescue his (deceased) wife from Hades. He was later killed by followers of Dionysus, the god of wine & festivity. Octomore 4.2 "Comus" was named in a similar fashion, but they've since moved away from the Greek mythology references. Now, on to the whisky!

Octomore 2.2 'Orpheus', 5-years old, 61.0%. Islay, Scotland.

Released 2009. Barley peated to 140 ppm, finished in Chateau Petrus red wine casks. Non-chill filtered, natural colour. 15,000 bottles. 

Colour: Polished copper. 

Nose: Huge chunky, earthy, tarry peat. Strawberries in quality balsamic vinegar, apricots & nectarines behind that. Soft leather & polished old wooden furniture, smoked sea salt. Touches of olives in chilli oil, and creamy yoghurt with black cherry. Turkish delight, orange dark chocolate, and fresh road tar. 

Texture: Heavy weight. Big, viscous, oily, rich. And peaty! Slight heat initially as you'd expect for a 5-year old whisky at 61%, but it breathes off quickly. 

Taste: Peaty, fruity, smoky. Huge chunky peat again, spicy & ashy peat smoke, fresh road tar. Smoked & sweet paprika, black pepper, and BBQ-grilled stone fruit - peaches, apricots, nectarines. Big waves of fresh tar and chewy dark chocolate fudge. Touch of liquorice straps. 

Finish: Very long length. Very, very long. More strawberries in balsamic vinegar, touch of cocktail onion acidity, and the salty whey that mozzarella is packed in. Fresh oranges, smoked sea salt, touch of black cherry jam. And the peat, tar, and ashy smoke never quit!

Score: 4.5 out of 5. 

Notes: Fantastic whisky. Without doubt my favourite wine-influenced Octomore to date, and there have been quite a few of those! Yes, Orpheus easily beats both 4.2 and 8.3 in my book. Wine casks and peat don't always get along well; see most of the Longrow Red series and also Octomore 9.2 for some bad examples. But here the peat & wine casks are almost evenly matched, and they've worked extremely well together. Octomore 2.2 Orpheus is now jostling with 6.3 and OBA for the number one spot in my personal top three Octomores of all-time. Although the Feis Ile 2025 'Polyphonic' bottling is also in the running now. Orpheus has an incredible texture and huge volume of flavour, and it's a great example of the magic of Octomore at just 5-years of age. A 5-year age statement might be more common and more acceptable now, but in 2009 such a thing was basically unheard of, and at 61% ABV many would've expected a full-on assault on the taste buds. In fact many would've turned their noses up and overlooked this dram altogether. But that's the beguiling nature of these earlier Octomores, neither the level of peat influence, the young age, or the high bottling strengths, are as aggressive as you might expect if you only looked at the numbers and took them at face value.

I can absolutely see why Orpheus enjoys the reputation that it does, and it does belong on every peated whisky fan's wishlist just like it was on mine. I'm very lucky to have been able to get a bottle 15-ish years after putting it on my bucket list, and I'm very glad that I opened it and shared it on my 40th. I sometimes struggle to open unicorn bottles like this, since they tend to be almost irreplaceable, but I have no regrets here. This is a hero I'm very glad to have met!

Cheers!

Lagg Inaugural Release Whisky Review - Plus a Bonus!

The first whisky release from the Isle of Arran's newest distillery and the island's second legal distillery; Lagg. Despite being bottled nearly three years ago now, this is my first Lagg!

Lagg Distillery is the second distillery, and the newest, on the Isle of Arran in the west of Scotland, around a 2.5-hour drive & ferry trip south-west from Glasgow. Like most of the Scottish islands Arran was home to a lot of illicit (illegal) distillation in the past, and the island's last legal distillery operated from 1825 to 1837. Arran Distillery opened in 1995 in Lochranza near the Island's northern coast, backed by a private consortium including a former Chivas Bros. executive. That northern Arran distillery is now known as Lochranza - but their whisky is still branded as Arran - after the same company built a second distillery in Lagg on the southern side of the island, around a 30-minute drive from the island's main town of Brodick. Lagg Distillery is located near the site of that last legal distillery which closed in 1837, and was always intended to only produce peated whisky, where the Lochranza distillery would switch to only produce unpeated whisky after initially producing both unpeated and peated spirit - the latter was sold under the "Machrie Moor" brand. Interestingly despite the two distilleries only being twenty miles apart, Lagg is officially in the Lowlands whisky region, while Lochranza / Arran Distillery is in the Highlands region, since Lagg is below the 'Highland line'. But both distilleries are on an island, and the Scottish islands are considered part of the Highlands region, but Arran isn't part of the Hebridean islands since it sits in-between the Kintyre Peninsula and the mainland. So Lagg is the only Lowland distillery located on an island, and the only non-Islay island distillery that is not in the Highland whisky region. Not confusing at all! 

Lagg Distillery has a production capacity of around 750,000-litres of spirit per year, mainly peated to 50 ppm using malted barley sourced from the mainland, although there have been experiments using both lower and higher peating levels. There are four wooden washbacks employing a fermentation period of 72-hours, and distillation takes place in a 10,000-litre wash still and 7,000-litre spirit still, and maturation is in a variety of cask types but principally ex-bourbon, which are matured in both dunnage and modern palletised warehouses on the island. All expressions are non-chill filtered and natural colour. Once Lagg's single malt came of age in mid-late 2022 there were three initial releases, with Batch 1 being matured in ex-bourbon casks, Batch 2 being matured in ex-bourbon and finished in small ex-sherry casks, and Batch 3 being matured in ex-bourbon and finished in small ex-red wine casks. All three bottlings were 3-years of age and bottled at 50% ABV, with 10,000 bottles of each released. Following those inaugural releases hit the shelves in late 2022 two core range whiskies were launched; The ex-bourbon matured 'Kilmory Edition', and the Oloroso sherry finished 'Corriecravie Edition'. Both are named after local landmarks. Other than that, the distillery seems to have been relatively quiet, and the inaugural releases are still readily available here in Australia, at around $200 AUD. That's a steep price for a 3-year old with 10,000 bottles released, even at 50% ABV, which is probably why it's still available today. It's still available from the distillery's own website as well, three years after release, for £75, which is around $160 AUD - so with shipping and duties $200 sounds about right in comparison. Also sounds about $20-30 too much, though... Let's find out!

 

Lagg Inaugural Release, NAS (but 3-years old), 50% ABV. Isle of Arran, Scotland.

Heavily peated 50 ppm, distilled 2019, matured in ex-bourbon barrels, bottled September 2022. Non-chill filtered, natural colour.

Colour: Pale gold. 

Nose: Herbal, smoky, grassy. Bitter orange, hay, wet barley, caramel sauce, grassy wood smoke. Lemon-flavoured white chocolate. Dry earthy peat, a little peppermint, fresh flowers, and a touch of beeswax around the edges. 

Texture: Light weight. Peaty, youthful, zesty. Touch of heat. 

Taste: Oily & sweet entry, big chunky earthy peat, black pepper, touch of disinfectant. Caramel sauce, bit of ginger, and malt vinegar. Maybe even salt & vinegar potato chips?

Finish: Medium length. That chunky peat carries through, with some black pepper and tar underneath. Some hints of vanilla caramel syrup, cocktail onions, dried herbs & dried flowers around the edges. 

Score: 3 out of 5. 

Notes: It's youthful and quite straightforward, and without the peat to cover it there might've been more heat & rawness to contend with. But we already knew that going in! The youth shows in the thinness on the palate, and the only thing of note in the finish is the peatiness, which is the dominant force throughout this dram. But again, that's to be expected, it's a 3-year old first release! The cask influence does seem very light in comparison to other "modern" ex-bourbon cask inaugural releases, but I'm sure that's intentional to keep the peat influence intact. The other two batches, wine cask & sherry cask respectively, can take care of the rest. It'll be interesting to see where Lagg goes from here, they certainly seem to be relatively quiet compared to most of the "new breed". Maybe they're waiting for more stock to hit maturity? Time will tell!

And the bonus for this review... A distillery exclusive from the original Arran, now known as Lochranza. This is an Arran single cask released way back in 2015! This bottle was a recent auction win that piqued my curiosity, partly because it was a distillery exclusive from ten years ago, but mostly because it was fully matured in a Spanish oak Fino sherry butt and bottled at a cask strength of 58.7%, non-chill filtered and natural colour. Fino sherry casks are growing in popularity but still aren't particularly common, even less so ten years ago when this one was bottled. They are quite divisive as a cask type (as is the dry, yeasty, and salty Fino sherry itself), although in my experience they can work very well - admittedly most of that experience is with peated malt whisky, which this Arran is not. Adding to my curiosity, after I had placed the winning bid I mentioned it to a mate of mine who decided to tell me that he had bought a bottle locally back in the day, and that he'd found it almost undrinkable back then. Since it was too late to do anything about the purchase, I'm choosing to take that as a challenge! It seems that Arran's Australian importer at the time was able to get the distillery to send some of these distillery exclusive bottles over, even going to the trouble of having the Distillery Manager, James MacTaggart who joined the distillery in 2007 and retired in 2022, sign the bottles before they were shipped. Said importer still has this bottle listed on their website - long sold out of course - for $220 AUD, which means that after auction fees I saved a whopping $6 off the original retail price... At least that original price was from almost a decade ago!

As mentioned above, the original Arran Distillery is now known as Lochranza Distillery, but their single malt is still branded as Arran. Since Lagg Distillery opened in 2019 the Lochranza site has switched to 100% unpeated production, with a production capacity of around 1.2-million litres per year after a second pair of stills were added in 2017. Actual production is reportedly around 800,000-litres per year. Obviously this Fino sherry cask matured distillery exclusive pre-dates all of that, including the Arran packaging update that happened in 2019. Let's see how it goes!

Arran Fino Sherry Matured, NAS, 58.7%. Isle of Arran, Scotland.

Distillery exclusive, bottled 2015. Fully matured in Spanish oak ex-Fino sherry cask, 308 bottles. Non-chill filtered, natural colour.

Colour: Copper. 

Nose: Rich, sweet, salty, fruity. Rock salt, rich chewy toffee, thick sultana syrup. Baked nectarines, thick honey, sweet glace (candied) cherries, sugared almonds, sourdough bread, and freshly sawn wood. Bitter orange peel, lemon drops, hint of fresh flowers. 

Texture: Medium-heavy weight. Rich, chewy, sweet & fruity. Slight heat but carries it well. 

Taste: Rich sweet entry with sultanas in syrup, sweet glace cherries, sugared almonds, and sweet pastry - Bakewell tarts, anyone? Some white pepper, fresh flowers, and lemon drops underneath. Some sweetened tea, and cinnamon sugar around the edges. 

Finish: Long length. Sweet juicy sultanas, glace cherries, white pepper, and rock salt carry through. Sweetened tea, sweet flowers, sugared almonds, lemon drops, and baked nectarines with honey. Hints of tropical fruit and rich tea biscuits to finish. 

Score: 4 out of 5. 

Notes: Delicious dram, very rich & very tasty. You'll have to like sultanas, sherry, and maybe Bakewell tarts; but who doesn't? This is a very different whisky to the other Arrans that I've tried so far, even those bottled around the same time, and it's my clear favourite whisky from the distillery. The fino sherry influence is front & centre, but it's worked very well with the Spanish oak and the Arran spirit, giving a sweet & rich dessert whisky that is quite moreish. That's not exactly what I expected from a fino sherry cask, being a dry, yeasty, salty sherry, but I've had a Deanston fino cask matured (Union Exclusive or something like that) which had a similar profile, so maybe certain unpeated whiskies in fino casks at the right age can give this sort of result. Regardless, it's worked. The auction gamble paid off!

Cheers!

Hellyers Road 22 Year Old Whisky Review!

The oldest Hellyers Road single malt released to date, one of the oldest Tasmanian single malts released to date, and the second-oldest Australian whisky that I've ever tried. Judging by the 21-year old peated cask finish that I reviewed a few months ago, this 22-year old unpeated single cask should be good!

When this particular single cask of Hellyers Road single malt was distilled, way back in November 2002, the Tasmanian whisky industry was still in its infancy with only three distilleries operating on the island. Likewise the mainland Australian whisky industry, with only one tiny distillery operating; Melbourne's Bakery Hill, who were still a year away from releasing their first whisky. Sullivan's Cove, now easily the most-lauded brand in Tasmania, was only founded in 1994 and first launched in 2000 - and their very early releases under the original owner were a little murky and questionable. By now we all know the popular story of Bill & Lyn Lark resurrecting small-scale Australian whisky distilling back in 1992. But things were still relatively quiet for the subsequent decade and beyond - as recently as 2010 there were less than ten whisky distilleries operating in Australia, which is hard to imagine now! The boom in Australian whisky only began in 2014 when Sullivan's Cove won the top award at the World Whiskies Awards. This saw both Australian & Tasmanian whisky pushed into the spotlight both internationally and locally, whether the distilleries were ready or not - and many were certainly not. That's not to say that some of those earlier Australian whiskies weren't fantastic drams, many were, but some others were the polar opposite. Even today, save for a couple of the larger players and some of the more technically savvy operations, many of our distilleries still struggle with consistency, economies of scale, differentiation from the competition (without resorting to shock value), and cask management. 

That last point is probably the most crucial here in Australia. Our warm climate was initially seen as an advantage, with just about every Australian distillery thinking that it would enable them to "age faster" and start selling their whisky sooner. Compounding this, most were also filling into small casks of 20-50 litres, most commonly very active first-fill French oak ex-fortified wine casks. The best case scenario here was good but inconsistent whisky, while the worst case scenario was hot, immature whisky with some huge tannic fortified wine and wood influence overwhelming the spirit. Thanks to that warm climate of ours, a promising cask of whisky can take a sharp nosedive over the course of a month, or even less if it's in a small format cask during summer, and/or located a little further north. A missed sweet spot or an indecisive distiller can easily ruin what could've been a very tasty whisky, simply by leaving it for a month or two, whether by chance or by design. In my amateur opinion, as our industry has matured and most distilleries are now aiming for more consistency, more volume, and more maturity & complexity, the main obstacles in this pursuit are a) small format casks, and b) the local climate. Casks must be carefully checked prior to filling, particularly if they're ex-wine or ex-fortified and have been shipped from overseas, plus attention should be given to charring, toasting, and/or filling strength where needed. And once filled the casks must be watched extremely closely, particularly in the warmer months of the year. Even heavily peated spirit is not averse to this danger of being overwhelmed by cask, particularly when very long fermentation periods and tighter distillation cuts are used in order to give a "cleaner" peated spirit.

Back in those early-2000s, two Australian distilleries were bucking the local trends of small ex-fortified casks. Both actually began distilling in 1999; the first was Bakery Hill in Victoria, with David Baker choosing to follow a more "Scottish" method, initially using ex-bourbon casks of 50-100 litre capacity, then switching to 100-225 litre casks for longer maturation and more measured cask influence. David was also the first to use peated malted barley, rather than using the Lark method of "re-wetting" barley that was already malted before re-drying it with peat smoke. The other distillery bucking the trend was Tasmania's Hellyer's Road - who were also an early adopter of peated malted barley. Large format casks, relatively large scale production, international export, and a visitor's centre and café at the distillery - long before any of the other Tassie operations had thought about such things. Back then Hellyers produced a distinctly "funky" spirit, but not in a Campbeltown style or a worm tub condenser Scotch style. This was more of a metallic, butyric (sour & lactic), sulphuric style which certainly did not win the distillery many fans in those early days - steps have since been taken to rectify this at the distillery, including adding more copper to the still, increasing reflux and using more charred casks. But as we know from some Scotch whisky distilleries, when a funky, rough spirit is filled in to the right cask and left alone for lone enough, magic can happen. The right amounts of additive & subtractive cask influence and the evaporation & oxidisation of the spirit can round off those rough edges and add more complexity, turning that once unloved spirit into a lovely whisky. Which is just what we have here!

This 22-year old single cask release is the oldest Hellyers Road released to date. It was distilled from unpeated Tasmanian malted barley in November 2002, fully-matured in a first-fill American oak ex-Jack Daniels barrel, and bottled in March 2025 at 56.5% ABV without chill filtration or added colouring. The 200-litre cask yielded just 62-litres after those 22-years of maturation in northern Tasmania - a huge amount of evaporative loss - and there are only 80 x 700ml bottles released, available here at a retail price of $1,450 AUD. Yes that's a very expensive whisky, but as discussed here in my review of the 21-year old Peated Cask, compared to similarly aged whiskies from other Australian distilleries and some "world whisky" brands, it's actually reasonable. If memory serves this is the fifth oldest Australian single malt ever released, after two Sullivan's Cove 24-year old bottlings, and a 24- and 23-year old Cradle Mountain that were matured in the UK and bottled by Cadenhead's in Scotland *Edit - there was also a "Knopwood" independent bottling of Sullivan's Cove spirit that did not have an age statement, but was 1999 vintage and bottled circa 2023. Obviously if we had decent regulations like those of Scotch whisky those two Cadenhead's releases wouldn't be classed as Australian single malt since they were neither matured in Australia or bottled in Australia, but I'm getting off topic - again! That Hellyers Road 21-year old Peated Cask Finish that I reviewed previously was surprisingly peaty, but it also had plenty of spirit character on show after such a long maturation period and then also the active cask finishing. That was a much larger release than this 22-year old too, with 300 bottles at $1,350 AUD, so you can understand the $100 increase for this older 22-year old with such a small number of bottles available - and again, this is the oldest Hellyers Road released to date. Thanks to David and the team at Hellyers for sending this generous sample for me to take a look it. Let's dive in!

Hellyers Road 22 Year Old, 56.5%. Tasmania, Australia.

Unpeated, distilled November 2002, matured for 22-years in single first-fill ex-Jack Daniel's barrel (200L), bottled March 2025. Cask #2325.03, 80 bottles. Non-chill filtered, natural colour. 

Colour: Amber gold. 

Nose: Malty, tropical, creamy. Buttery & nutty toasted oak, damp malted barley, creamy vanilla yoghurt. Toasted desiccated (shredded & dried) coconut, fresh peaches & nectarines, touches of mango & passionfruit around the edges. Herbal honey, lemon tart, and roasted macadamia with more time. 

Texture: Medium weight. Oily, tropical, sweet, rich, and malty. Slight heat, but carried well. 

Taste: Malty, tropical entry with sweet mango, peach, and nectarine, plus some passionfruit yoghurt in the background. No, make that passionfruit curd in vanilla yoghurt. Toasted oak, a little cinnamon sugar, eucalyptus leaves, lemon tart, and a touch of sandalwood. 

Finish: Long length. Roasted macadamias, eucalyptus leaves, and more lemon tart & passionfruit curd vanilla yoghurt. Touches of roasted almonds, toasted oak, and damp barley to round things out. 

Score: 4 out of 5. 

Notes: Lovely whisky. Those fresh tropical fruit & stone fruit notes are delicious, reminding me more of a similarly-aged Irish whiskey than any Australian single malt. The fruitiness is balanced by the oak, acidic lemon & passionfruit notes, and the creamy vanilla yoghurt in the background. There's a little spirit-y heat on the back palate, but there's enough texture/weight and enough flavour to carry it. This 22-year old Hellyers Road is the second-most tropical Australian whisky that I've tasted to date - only beaten by an old single cask from Sullivan's Cove which was a total freak of nature. And I'm thinking there's more complexity in this Hellyers Road. It's great to see what their early distillate - challenging, divisive, and rough around the edges as it was - can morph into when left alone in the right cask for the right amount of time. As said above, that's where the magic can happen with spirits like these! 

But that's not all folks! The team at Hellyers also sent a sample of their flagship age statement whisky, the 12-year old American Oak. This is a small batch semi-regular release that is fully matured in first-fill ex-bourbon casks and bottled at 46.2% ABV without chill filtration or added colouring. It was first released in 2022, which won "Best Australian Single Malt" at the World Whiskies Awards, the same organisation who gave Sullivan's Cove that famous "World's Best" award back in 2014. Pricing on this one, in a 700ml bottle, is $260 AUD. Let's see how this younger iteration fares!

Hellyers Road 12 Year Old American Oak, 46.2%. Tasmania, Australia. 

Regular small batch release, fully matured in first-fill ex-bourbon casks. Non-chill filtered, natural colour.

Colour: Gold. 

Nose: Dusty biscuity malt, red apples, orange peel, icing sugar, touch of lemon zest. Slight fizzy / effervescent - lemonade? Chewy caramel fudge too.  

Texture: Medium weight. Softer, creamy, no heat, but it's 10% lower in ABV of course! 

Taste: Sweet vanilla wafers, red apples, touches of fresh ground ginger & roasted macadamia. Orange peel, and sweet glazed puff pastry around the edges. 

Finish: Medium length. Chewy caramel fudge, vanilla wafers, apple pie, macadamia nuts. Orange peel to round things out. 

Score: 3.5 out of 5. 

Notes: Honestly, I don't think I'd pick this 12-year old as a Hellyers Road in a line-up. Like many longer-term Australian whisky drinkers I do have a little past trauma from their early releases (e.g. those bottled around 10-12 years ago), but the two well-aged releases that I've now tried in the last few months, and now this 12-year old release, have effectively cured me of that. The 22-year old is I think more recognisable as an Australian whisky, aside from those tropical fruit notes at least, whereas this 12-year old is much harder to pin down. If I was given this dram in a blind tasting, it would probably have me thinking northern hemisphere rather than Tasmania, and maybe at a more advanced age, since the age is definitely a factor in the quality of this dram. Definitely worth trying this one folks!

Age isn't everything. But how many Australian distilleries have a 12-year old age statement available for this sort of price? I'm actually struggling to think of any! Overeem did release their first 12-year old a couple of years ago, which was $400 in 46% ABV & 700ml guise, or you could get a 60% ABV version for around $600. Sullivan's Cove get close or beyond that age on a regular basis, but they're single cask releases ranging from $400 to $550 and beyond, and they're much harder to get your hands on. This is the advantage that Hellyers have, thanks to those relatively high volume early days they've been laying down stock for longer than just about anyone - except Sullivan's Cove at least, which Hellyers Road isn't far behind. And Hellyers have had something of an "economies of scale" pricing advantage since day one. I wonder who'll be the first to release a 25-year old Australian whisky? It would have to be one of these two Tasmanians. The (slow) race is on!

Cheers!

Yamazaki Distillery Exclusive 2024 Whisky Review!

A liquid souvenir from the trip to Japan last year, which included a visit to Yamazaki! Peated, 48% ABV and non-chill filtered, and a reasonable price for a 180ml bottle. Most importantly, it's one tasty souvenir!

Of the two Suntory malt whisky distilleries, Yamazaki is definitely the easier to visit. Hakushu is without doubt the more beautiful site and the more scenic trip, being around two hour's train ride west of Tokyo in the Japanese Alps. It's a stunning location and a beautiful experience, and if you have the time I absolutely recommend Hakushu as the distillery to visit and spend time in. Yamazaki is far more convenient to visit, being an easy 40-minute train ride south-west from Kyoto station, and while it's basically in suburbia it's still an attractive place! Yamazaki Distillery was the first dedicated Japanese malt whisky distillery, built in 1923 by Shinjiro Torii with help from Masataka Taketsuru, who would go on to found his own company, Nikka, and build Yoichi Distillery in Hokkaido in 1934. Like all of the large Japanese malt whisky distilleries who unlike the Scotch whisky industry don't like sharing whisky or trading casks with their competitors, Suntory's Yamazaki produces a huge range of different whiskies by using different barley varieties, fermentation times, peating levels, wash & spirit still shapes & sizes, spirit cut points, and cask types - including American oak, Spanish oak, and Japanese Mizunara oak. Yamazaki has its own cooperage, located in Suntory's warehousing complex around 60km north-east of Yamazaki in Shiga Prefecture, which apparently has a storage capacity of more than 1.7-million casks. There are nine stainless washbacks and eight wooden washbacks in use, the wash stills are direct fired, and there are now a total of eighteen stills, some of which have worm tub condensers, with the rest having shell & tube condensers. The end goal of all of this variation is to create many styles of whisky for their blenders to play with in order to create their different single malts, which again stems back to the Japanese industry not trading casks or sharing knowledge between companies, as is done in Scotland. 

Both of Suntory's malt whisky distilleries have visitor's centres, but there are some important points for those who are headed to Japan and want to visit them. Firstly and most importantly, unlike in Scotland or the U.S. you cannot just turn up to the distillery expecting to peruse the shop, taste some whisky, and buy a souvenir or two. To visit Hakushu or Yamazaki you must pre-book via the distilleries' websites, and they're often booked out well in advance, usually months ahead. So just fronting up to either distilleries' check-in counters, especially during peak times or major tourism seasons, will most likely get you turned away with polite apologies. This applies to both a full distillery tour, and just visiting the tasting bar and shop. At either site the proper distillery tours are paid ones, and they're reserved by ballot - usually selling out within a day or two of the date/s becoming available on the websites' booking system. Essentially, if you haven't entered the ballot and reserved your tour within this time frame, you're probably not going to get on the actual distillery tour. The other option is free and much more accessible, but will not let you step foot in the distillery itself. You'll only get access to the distillery museum, shop, and tasting bar, which are completely separate from the production facilities. Even then you can only book a one hour timeslot (in total including queuing time at the gift shop), you still have to make your reservation in advance, and you may have to be flexible with dates & times to get a slot, and/or be lucky enough to spot a cancellation on the online booking system. You'll then get to buy some merchandise, and if you're lucky also a small bottle of a distillery exclusive single malt - even the distillery shops do not usually have their regular products available for sale, particularly those with age statements, so don't make the trip to the distillery shop expecting to get a bottle of Yamazaki 12-year old at a bargain price. You're probably going to be disappointed. Japanese whisky is just as popular in Japan as it is elsewhere, if not more so, and the big brands and age stated products are difficult to find on Japanese shelves for a reasonable price. All of that said, it is absolutely worth the trip to Yamazaki for the museum, shop, and tasting bar alone, and also the scenery and local area - albeit nowhere near as beautiful as Hakushu. You'll be able to try the distilleries' products at the tasting bar, and the dram prices are reasonable - not as reasonable as they were prior to mid-2024, though. If you're wanting to try either of the 25-year old single malts or the Hibiki 30-year old at these tasting bars, you're now looking at over $100 AUD for a dram. That's a reasonable price by Australian whisky bar pricing standards (sadly), but it's certainly not cheap overall and is more than double what they were prior to mid-2024.

The cheaper and far better options at these tasting bars are the products that you can only try at the distilleries, such as new make spirit, cask components of the flagship single malts, or the distillery exclusive bottlings. For around $7-10 AUD you can try a pour of new make spirit from Chita grain distillery, and the respective malt distilleries' new make spirits, and three different cask component samples of their single malt. For example at Yamazaki you can try the single malt new make spirit, an ex-bourbon American oak cask sample, a Mizunara matured cask sample, a Spanish oak cask sample, a couple of limited release NAS single malts, and the current distillery exclusive bottling. There were two distillery exclusive Yamazaki single malts available during my visit; a 300ml American oak bottled at 40% ABV for around $40 AUD, and the one that I went for, a 180ml bottle of peated Yamazaki matured in Spanish oak bottled at 48% ABV, for around $37 AUD. All visitors are limited to one bottle per person. That 180ml bottle equates to around $125 for a full-size bottle, so that's a very reasonable price for a distillery exclusive Suntory single malt bottled at a decent strength - which is quite the rare thing. This distillery exclusive is not to be confused with the travel retail / duty free exclusive "Kogei Collection" peated Spanish oak bottlings that are only bottled at 43% ABV and are considerably more expensive, they're different products. This 48% ABV distillery exclusive bottling is clearly labelled as non-chill filtered, which is a strength and presentation normally reserved for the very expensive Suntory releases that are properly limited, like Yamazaki Golden Promise or Hakushu Heavily Peated. The majority of the Suntory range including the entire core range, from Hibiki Harmony to Hibiki 30-year old (which is over $10,000 AUD) blends, to Yamazaki & Hakushu 12-year old and 25-year old (also over $10,000 AUD), are all bottled at 43% and are chill filtered. 

The details about this distillery exclusive peated Yamazaki are quite scarce. Were the Spanish oak casks virgin oak, or were they seasoned with sherry? The infamous Yamazaki Sherry Cask - the 2013 release which won an award and was largely responsible for the absolutely insane explosion in demand for Japanese whisky that hit around 2015 - was last released in 2016 and so seems to have been discontinued, while the Yamazaki Spanish Oak special release was last released in 2022. The earlier Sherry Cask expression used Spanish oak ex-sherry casks that were seasoned with Oloroso sherry for three years, so we can safely assume that this Spanish Oak expression is doing the same and it's just a name change. It seems to be a cask terminology thing with Suntory, where they refer to ex-bourbon casks simply as American Oak, and ex-sherry casks simply as Spanish Oak. Japanese Mizunara oak isn't seasoned with anything prior to first use, but those casks are used multiple times for whisky maturation due to their cost & rarity. The same goes for their "Puncheon" bottlings, which seem to be virgin American oak puncheons of 480-500-litres capacity, but again these are then refilled after first use. Suntory does also use ex-red wine casks and ex-umeshu plum wine casks on occasion, among some other oddities like cedar wood casks. The other mysterious point on this peated Yamazaki, which was a very rare thing itself until those travel exclusive "Kogei" peated malts were released, is where the peated malt was sourced from. There aren't any details available on this point, but since most Japanese distilleries are sourcing peated malted barley from Scotland or elsewhere internationally, we can assume it was the same story here. There is a separate Yamazaki Islay Peated bottling that was released in mid-2024, so at least we can assume this distillery exclusive doesn't use Islay peated malt i.e. from Port Ellen Maltings. Anyway, let's see how this $37 180ml bottle of 48% ABV peated Yamazaki goes!

Yamazaki Distillery Exclusive, NAS, 48% ABV. Yamazaki, Japan. 

Distilled from peated malt, matured in Spanish oak casks. 180ml bottle, 2024. Non-chill filtered, unknown colouring but likely natural. 

Colour: Dark bronze. 

Nose: Oaky, spicy, fruity. Spicy oak (cinnamon, clove, etc), black tea, buttery pie crust pastry, loads of dried fruit - currants, raisins, bitter orange peel, plums. Soft earthy peat underneath. Burnt toffee, leather, dark chocolate syrup. A little rancio as well, with roasted nuts, dried mushrooms, forest floor. Touch of spent coffee grounds. 

Texture: Medium weight. Oaky, peaty, syrupy, slightly astringent. No heat at all. 

Taste: Peatier here than on the nose, an earthy dry peat, Ardmore or Benromach level maybe. Leather, dried mushrooms, spicy oak, leather, bitter orange peel. Ashy peat smoke comes through with more roasted nuts, buttery pie crust pastry, currants & raisins, touch of aniseed. 

Finish: Medium length. Earthy peat & forest floor, bitter orange peel, burnt toffee, dark chocolate syrup. Touch of Vietnamese coffee, more currants & plums, roasted nuts, cinnamon & cloves. Slight touches of sandalwood, ginger, and aniseed around the edges. 

Score: 3.5 out of 5. 

Notes: Very tasty dessert dram, without being overly sweet. Something like an over-spiced rich Christmas mince pie with extra orange peel & dark chocolate sauce poured over the top, but then with earthy peat in there somehow... Sounds strange, but I'd eat it! The Spanish oak & sherry influences are very prominent, but they're balanced out a little with that earthy peat - strong sherry casks can easily overwhelm peat influence in anything short of Laphroaig, but that hasn't been allowed to happen in this peated Yamazaki. This is a very easy-drinking whisky even with that heavy cask influence, still refined in the typical Japanese style, but far less-so than in most Yamazaki that I've tasted to date. That's probably down to the peat, which is a very rare thing in Yamazaki as it is, even more so combined when with sherry casks! 

Given the quality of this dram and the rarity of this style of Yamazaki, I'm more-than happy with the value for money here since I picked it up at the distillery for that $37 AUD. But for the love of God do not pay the ridiculous secondary prices that some "retailers" are asking (some over $300 AUD for 180ml, which is laughable). This is a 180ml bottle at 48% ABV which is meant to be a liquid souvenir or keepsake, not a flippable commodity. It's a shame that many people see all Japanese whisky as the latter, but with any luck that'll be slowing down in the current market - it certainly has locally and will probably continue to do so. Fingers crossed!

Cheers!

Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire Whisky Reviews!

These "Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire" whiskies are small batch mystery single malts from Atom Brands, the independent bottler owned by UK retailer Master of Malt, which they've dubbed the "& Whisky" brand. Look, I like an ampersand as much as the next guy. But this might be a bit much...

This is Atom Brands' take on a Port Askaig / Scarabus / Finlaggan series of mystery bottlings, although rather than solely consisting of Islay single malts like those examples, in this "& Whisky" range there are also Highland single malts, blended whisky from different distilleries, and even blended whiskies from different countries - Islay single malt blended with Canadian corn whisky, for example! Atom / Master of Malt also produces the Boutique-y and Darkness ranges of independent whisky bottlings, alongside a couple of gin and rum brands. There is & has been a large number of releases in this "& Whisky" series, ranging from an NAS at 40% ABV to a 45-year old single grain whisky, plus a few oddities like a Canadian corn whiskey and even a blend of Islay single malt & Canadian corn whiskey! Most of these releases don't seem to make it to Australia, but Sydney-based online retailer Barrel & Batch seems to have the largest range on these shores. The local contact here is Brand Ambassador Simon McGoram, an industry stalwart who previously had a long tenure with Diageo, and was the source of the two samples. They were leftovers that were provided with no obligation to review, but this is my first go at their "& Whisky" range, so I thought I'd take a closer look. We have one 12-year old Islay and one 18-year old Highland to look at, both heavily peated single malts and both cask strength, and both quite reasonably priced. 

Thanks to the scale of production most, but not all, anonymous Islay single malts will be Caol Ila. With a huge annual capacity of 6.5-million litres of spirit, it's producing double that of Laphroaig, which is the next inline on Islay in terms of size. But that's not to say that Caol Ila doesn't make fantastic whisky, because they absolutely do! Most of the distillery's production goes into owner Diageo's blended whiskies, but when it comes to single malt this is easily one of the more consistent malt distilleries in Scotland, and plenty of independent bottlers take advantage of that. So the 12-year old Islay single malt from "& Whisky" that we're looking at here is most likely a Caol Ila. The 18-year old that we're looking at after that is much more difficult though, because it's from the Highland region. It's heavily peated, which helps narrow it down a little, but there are still many options - especially if you include the islands, which aside from Islay are part of the Highlands region. To my mind that leaves Ledaig (Tobermory), Knockdhu (AnCnoc), Ardmore, Ben Nevis, Ballechin (Edradour), Glenturret, Loch Lomond, and Cu Bocan (Tomatin). Obviously it won't be Ardnamurchan or Wolfburn since they've only recently had their tenth birthdays, and this whisky is 18-years of age. Mystery malts like these can be a bit of a gamble, since there's often no provenance given at all. At least in this case we have a good age statement and bottling strength, but without having tasted the liquid before purchase, the only real source of reassurance here is knowing the bottler's previous work. In this case I've never tried the "& Whisky" series, but I've had a few bottlings from the Boutique-y and Darkness brands which have been tasty. As always though, the proof is in the tasting. It's the liquid that counts!

First up is the Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire 12-year old Sauternes finish, which is a cask strength single cask Islay single malt bottled at 54.4% ABV. Sauternes is a sweet wine from the Bordeaux region of Southern France, which can work very well with peated whisky - Kilchoman and Port Charlotte/Octomore in particular. Sauternes is a sweet wine produced from white grapes that are affected by the naturally-occurring botrytis cinerea fungus which infects the fruit and consumes its water, concentrating the sugars within. Yields are low and fermentation takes a long time thanks to the high sugars, with the resulting wine often aged in casks for a decade or more. Typically Sauternes casks will add white (grapes, melon) fruit, honey, and sweet citrus flavours, generally they're only used for a short finishing period, but occasionally for full maturation. On paper those flavours wouldn't necessarily be your go-to pairing for a smoky & peaty coastal whisky, and like many cask finishes it doesn't always work! We don't know how long this "& Whisky" has spent in Sauternes casks, or which distillery it came from - chances are it was Caol Ila, of course. Pricing on this one is around $200 AUD, which isn't unreasonable for a 12-year old single cask Islay in this day & age. 413 bottles were released in late-2023, still readily available here in Australia. Just to be confusing, I'm writing this one up before the 18, but I tasted them in the opposite order since this one is a younger Islay. Let's see how it goes!

Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire 12-year old Islay, Sauternes Finish, 54.4%. Islay, Scotland.

Anonymous Islay single malt, finished for unknown period in Sauternes sweet wine cask. Non-chill filtered, natural colour, 413 bottles.

Colour: Amber. I'm not sure now if these are natural colour, both have a bit of the "fake tan" glow to them... Hopefully my suspicions are wrong. 

Nose: Peaty, sweet, fruity. Chunky muddy coastal peat, sweet but under-ripe fruit: bananas in particular, bit of apricot and touch of nectarine, all in vanilla syrup. White pepper, drinking chocolate mix / sweetened cocoa powder, bit of fresh tar. Damp freshly mowed grass, and lemon peel. 

Texture: Medium weight. Big peat, ashy, embers, sweet. No heat. 

Taste: Peaty & sweet. Big muddy coastal peat, burnt honeycomb in cooking chocolate / compound chocolate. Those under-ripe fruits plus some pineapple here, and vanilla syrup again. Touch of oily olive brine heading into the finish. 

Finish: Medium length. Thins out a little here, maybe some youth showing through under the cask finishing. Still a nice muddy chunky coastal peatiness, warm woodfire embers & charcoal, white pepper, and a bit of that olive brine again. Those sweet under-ripe bananas and burnt honeycomb again, but with the peat running underneath. Touches of passionfruit & apricot around the edges. 

Score: 3.5 out of 5. 

Notes: Feels significantly more mature than the 18-year old - Whoops, I suppose that was a spoiler for the next review! Oh well, I might as well double-down then, the 12-year old is the winner in my book! The level of cask influence from the Sauternes finish is just right if you ask me, I wouldn't want any more or less sauternes impact in this style of whisky. Is this a Caol Ila like most of the anonymous Islays? I don't know of course, but I can certainly see it being one. That grassiness and lemon peel is a bit of a giveaway, although I don't recall having a Sauternes cask Caol Ila before so it's tough to guess. I suppose I can tick that box now! Caol Ila's spirit does seem to work with just about any cask, as long as it's not an extremely aggressive sherry cask which would overwhelm any spirit!

Next we have another anonymous single malt from Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire, an 18-year old cask strength which seems to be a semi-regular release - this example is from Batch 2. This one is from the Highlands region which also includes the islands, which makes it impossible to pin down. Based on a quick sniff, out of the list of possibilities above I'm discounting the Island distilleries since the only possibility for this style would be Ledaig, and it isn't dirty or industrial enough in my opinion. Plus Tobermory/Ledaig has never stopped an indy using the distillery name, as far as I can recall. I'm guessing it's either AnCnoc, Glenturret, or Loch Lomond. AnCnoc is the given name for the official bottlings from Knockdhu Distillery, and they do produce some peated bottlings, but I can't recall how long they've been doing so - 18-years is an unlikely possibility, plus that distillery is located in the Speyside region, although the official bottlings are labelled as Highland single malts as Speyside distilleries are permitted to do. So Loch Lomond or Glenturret? Maybe! Mainland peated malts from the can be a little hit & miss in my opinion, and I'm yet to taste one that can compete with the equivalent from Islay or the Islands. But we shouldn't be judging a book by its cover...

Seaweed & Aeons & Digging & Fire 18-year old Highland, 54.8%. Highlands, Scotland.

Anonymous Highland single malt, heavily peated. Non-chill filtered, natural colour. 606 bottles. 

Colour: Amber. Again, unsure on colouring but it does look slightly suspicious - hopefully I'm wrong.

Nose: Sweet, meaty, surprisingly peaty & smoky! Loads of burnt smoky bacon, charred pepper steak, touch of aniseed & woody herbs. Runny caramel sauce, wood smoke and chunky earthy peat alongside. Salt-laden driftwood, bitter orange peel, touch of mushroom-y earthiness underneath. 

Texture: Medium weight. Oily sweet, spicy, meaty. Distracting spiky spirit heat, but not overly harsh. 

Taste: Meaty again with more burnt bacon, charred pepper steak, with more green peppercorns now. Sweet vanilla & caramel sauce. Some green chilli flakes & that aniseed again. Less wood smoke here, but it's still there, plus some sweeter orange, and that mushroom-y earthiness underneath. Spiky alcohol heat on the roof of the mouth. 

Finish: Medium length. Spiky heat carries over. More green chilli & green peppercorns, and a little coppery metallic edge. More bacon, caramel sauce, plus sweet orange around the edges. Mushroom-y earthiness and aniseed in the background. 

Score: 3 out of 5. 

Notes: Plenty of flavour here, including a lot of sweetness. It's also quite meaty, but not in a Mortlach or worm tub sort of way, more in a bacon-y, peppery, smoky way which leads me to think that this is a Glenturret. Especially with that slightly metallic edge on the finish, although I do sometimes find that in Inchmoan / peated Loch Lomond as well. Either way my money is on mainland rather than Ledaig, but I'm only guessing. That spiky spirit-y heat on the roof of the mouth is a little distracting, and it seems to anaesthetise the palate a bit which is a shame. But there's enough peat, meat, and sweet to carry it. That would've been a better title for this one; Sweet & Meat & Peat. Atom Brands' marketing department, I'll take my commission via bank transfer thanks!

Cheers!

Glen Scotia Victoriana Whisky Review!

A reasonably priced & accessible cask strength single malt from Campbeltown's middle child; Glen Scotia. The distillery's following is slowly growing, and this could be one of the region's most overlooked single malts!

In a world where Springbank 12-year old Cask Strength is still impossible to find and most allocations don't even hit the shelves before they hit the auction sites, where do we go for our cask strength Campbeltown fix? Yes, that's right, Kilkerran 8-year old Cask Strength. But here in Australia we only get one small shipment of that delicious dram per year, so where do we go once that allocation has been snapped up? Err... OK yes, that's right, Kilkerran Heavily Peated. But what if your timing is off and you can't get either of the cask strength Kilkerrans? Well there's a third distillery in Campbeltown folks; Glen Scotia! Often forgotten and overlooked even by us whisky geeks, this is probably the most popular of the three distilleries with the sort of whisky drinker that doesn't know where Campbeltown is, and doesn't know about the other two distilleries because they aren't sitting on the shelves at their local chain bottle shop / liquor store. Glen Scotia Distillery is the largest of the current Campbeltown trio, and by far the most widely available of the three, producing around three-times that of Springbank Distillery and about six-times that of Glengyle Distillery (Kilkerran). This is the only Campbeltown single malt that you'll find in travel retail / duty free stores, and the only Campbeltown single malt that you'll find in the larger chain bottle shops here in Australia - unfortunately that's due to them importing it directly from the distillery, but never mind that for now. This is the more conventional of the Campbeltown trio in terms of production, sourcing both unpeated, lightly peated, and heavily peated commercial malted barley from external maltsters, long fermenting in stainless steel washbacks, and distilling in a single pair of copper pot stills heated by steam coils and fitted with shell & tube condensers. But as we know, production equipment alone doesn't mean that the distillery is producing a generic single malt, you'll still find the Campbeltown characteristics in this distillery's whisky. Crucially, Glen Scotia doesn't cause a blip on the flipper's or investor's radar screens, nobody is really collecting this stuff. Which means it's purely for drinking and enjoying!

Glen Scotia has a chequered past, originally opening in 1832 during Campbeltown's whisky gold rush, and one of only two surviving distilleries from that period. The distillery went through a number of ownership changes over the 190 years since, and despite that history it's actually spent less time mothballed than the more famous Springbank. Glen Scotia's single malts had a mixed reputation during the 2000s-2010s, but the distillery was sold in the late-2000s which saw fermentation times increased to an average of 128-hours, and the distillery was sold to Loch Lomond group in 2014 which saw the new owners revamp the distillery's wood policy. Glen Scotia was relaunched circa 2015 after that ownership change, with the then-new core range line up consisting of the non-age statement 'Double Cask' which is a young PX sherry cask finish at 46%, the underrated 15-year old which is ex-bourbon matured at 46%, and the non-age statement Victoriana that we're looking at today. Since then they've also added an entry-level "Campbeltown Harbour" bottling at 40% ABV aimed squarely at the supermarkets and big retail chains, plus an 18-year old and 25-year old bottling. Some of these claim to be lightly peated, but I'm yet to find any overt peat influence in these core range bottlings. There are also limited releases for the annual Campbeltown Malts Festival which are generally young-ish whiskies that are finished in some exotic cask type - the 2025 release is a heavily peated 9-year old red wine finish. 

Victoriana has been around for quite a while now, but has been through a couple of significant changes during its tenure, the main one being that it switched from being bottled at a batch strength of 51.5% ABV to being bottled at a cask strength of 54.2%. I believe this change took place circa 2019, but it took a couple of years for the stock to filter down to the Australian market. Like other cask strength batch release single malts these vattings are blended to that strength without dilution, just like Glenfarclas 105 and a few others. The other major change in Victoriana seems to have happened around 2020 along with a labelling and packaging update, and the added colouring in the 51.5% version was dropped. This 2020 update saw some PX sherry casks added to the vatting, where previously it had been 100% finished in heavily charred virgin American oak. Initial maturation is still first-fill and refill ex-bourbon casks, but according to the distillery manager the vatting is now around 30% PX sherry casks and 70% heavily charred virgin American oak casks, mostly at around 10-12 years of age. Personally I wouldn't have picked this change based on smell or taste, I don't find any overt sherry influence in Victoriana. So maybe those PX casks are refill, and/or the finishing period is only short. On the flipside the influence of those heavily charred virgin American oak casks is immediately apparent, albeit slightly dialled down over the old 51.5% ABV version. All versions have been clearly declared (pun intended) to be non-chill filtered. Let's get to it!

Glen Scotia Victoriana, NAS, 54.2%. Campbeltown, Scotland.

Matured in first- and second-fill ex-bourbon casks, finished in heavy char virgin American oak and PX sherry casks. Cask strength, non-chill filtered, natural colour. 

Colour: Gold. 

Nose: Oily, peppery (scent, not alcohol), rich. Used machine oils, red apple chips / crisps (dried), oat cakes, flashes of rich vanilla custard around the edges. Freshly cracked black pepper, a handful of damp barley, rich salted caramel sauce. Freshly cut timber, oily varnish, dried lemon & orange peels. 

Texture: Medium-heavy weight. Oily, malty, rich, salty. Campbeltown! Slight touch of heat. 

Taste: Malty, salty entry. Salted caramel fudge with extra sea salt flakes. Machine oils, peanut brittle, oily furniture polish. Dried red apple again, a couple of fresh blackberries, black pepper, and dried lemon & orange peel again. Adds something slightly metallic as it breathes, like rusting iron - but it's very subtle!

Finish: Long length. Warming oak, wood spices (cinnamon), grated ginger. More peanut brittle and over-salted caramel. Dried red apple, salt-laden driftwood, clean machine oils, touch of curry leaf, lemon peel. 

Score: 3.5 out of 5, and close to a 4. 

Notes: Lovely stuff. Oily, salty, rich, and woody but not overly so. This is a very Campbeltown whisky - just cleaner in style than most of the other two distilleries' stuff. Victoriana is underrated in comparison - here in Australia this is the cheapest and most widely available cask strength Campbeltown single malt on the shelves, by a huge margin. It's "Campbeltown-y" enough to satisfy us whisky geeks, without being too "Campbeltown-y" to put off any newcomers. There's plenty of flavour & character in this Glen Scotia, and it simultaneously feels both modern & clean and old-school & funky. I'd have no problem putting Victoriana up against Springbank 10-year old or Kilkerran 12-year old, particularly since it's cask strength where the other two are diluted to 46%. In this country the Springbank is priced $30-40 AUD higher than the Scotia so it's competitively priced, and is far from bland or boring. Certainly worth grabbing if you haven't had the pleasure. 

Cheers!

Whisky in Isolation Whisky Reviews!

Three single malts from Australian independent bottler Whisky in Isolation! One from Southern Tasmania's Hobart Whisky (Devils Distillery), one from Northern Tasmania's Launceston Distillery, and one from Victoria's Kinglake Distillery, all with a unique twist to set them apart. This'll be fun!

Justin Farmer's Whisky in Isolation is a tiny independent bottler based in Melbourne, Victoria. Justin started out during the pandemic - hence the name - with his first release hitting the shelves in 2022. Independent bottling of Australian whisky is still quite a rare thing, largely because unlike in the "old world' whisky industries our distilleries are already ticking a lot of boxes with their official bottlings; i.e. single casks, cask strength, natural presentation, and a myriad of different cask finishings. This doesn't leave much room for an indy bottler to stand out from the distillery's official products, unless they either a) buy new make spirit rather than mature casks and go the distance on their own, or b) go even further apart from the distillery's own products to differentiate themselves. Justin does a bit of both, but mostly goes for a distinctive point of difference in the spirit and/or maturation to give his bottlings another unique selling point. Case in point, all three (yes, three!) Whisky in Isolation bottlings that we're looking at today are things that the respective distilleries' have never done before in their official bottlings!

First-up, a forthcoming release sourced from Launceston in Northern Tasmania, around two hours north of Hobart. This is the first triple distilled whisky from Launceston Distillery, but not only that, it's also the first non-malt whisky from Launceston Distillery; being 50% malted barley with the remaining 50% comprised of unmalted barley, corn, and wheat. A similar approach to an Irish single pot still whiskey then and technically a single grain whisky by the Scottish definitions, but also what you could call a "single blended whisky", being a mix of both grain and malt whisky from one single distillery. Once it had been distilled three times in Launceston's copper pot stills this unique new make spirit was filled into a custom-made 61-litre American oak ex-bourbon cask, but an ex-bourbon cask that had been seasoned (or rather re-seasoned) with Oloroso sherry. That's three very unique points of difference in this one whisky; triple distillation, mixed mash bill of malted & unmalted barley, corn, and wheat, and an ex-bourbon cask that had been re-seasoned with sherry. Justin has really outdone himself here! Launceston Distillery was founded in 2013 at Launceston Airport in the heritage-listed former Ansett Airlines hangar, and began distilling in 2015. The distillery was founded by a team of five friends, headed by Chris Condon who was also the original Head Distiller at Nant from 2008-2011. This is a very small operation doing everything in-house, including mashing and brewing where they ferment for a whopping 7-days, followed by slow distillation in their two copper pot stills. This Whisky in Isolation release from Launceston Distillery has been named "Good Things", and was bottled at 52.0% ABV with a yield of 112 x 500ml bottles. Retail pricing is $185 AUD, launching during Tasmanian Whisky Week (4-10 June 2025) and then available here from Justin's website. 

Whisky in Isolation "Good Things", Launceston Distillery, 52.0%. Launceston, Tasmania. 

Triple distilled from 50% malted barley, 50% unmalted barley, corn & wheat. Matured in 61-litre American oak ex-bourbon cask that was re-seasoned with Oloroso sherry.

Colour: Light amber. 

Nose: Grain-led sweetness, icing sugar, toasted coconut, banana toffee (banoffee) fudge. Very bourbon-like which makes sense. Wood spices drying things out before tinned stone fruit in syrup, charred oak, sweet toasted raisin bread. Honey-roasted nuts and burnt orange peel around the edges. 

Texture: Medium weight. Lightly oily, soft, sweet. No heat. 

Taste: Sweet & nutty, with more gooey toffee fudge, runny honey, hint of sweet banana. Vanilla caramel, burnt raisin bread. Wood spices, toasted coconut, more sultanas, touch of pear juice around the edges. 

Finish: Short length. Walnuts, raisins, fruit syrup, powdered ginger. Touches of honey & orange peel before the wood spices and toffee take over. 

Score: 3 out of 5. 

Notes: One for the bourbon lovers I'd say, but with that sherry re-seasoning adding more complexity & the wood spices keeping that sweetness in check - just! This would have to be the most bourbon-like Australian whisky that I've tried to date, although it's been a long time since I've tried a Whipper Snapper (basically bourbon-style Australian whisky) from WA. And that's despite the cask for this Launceston being re-seasoned with Oloroso sherry - which just reinforces that the wood is the driving factor in maturation in this country, especially with a small 61-litre cask. For reference, a traditional "rundlet" cask is 68-litres, and that's basically the smallest cask used in Scotch whisky, while here in the much warmer Australia climate 50-litre casks are very common, and 20-litre casks are still widespread in younger distilleries. Still, in the case of this Whisky in Isolation bottling the wood hasn't completely overwhelmed and the whisky hasn't become dry or overly tannic as can happen in some Australian whiskies. That cask has clearly been well managed! Nicely done. 

Round Two!

Next up, the current Whisky in Isolation release, from Southern Tasmania's Hobart Whisky. Hobart Whisky is made at Devils Distillery, which was founded in 2015 in the Northern Hobart suburb of Moonah. This is a small distillery that also produces gin and moonshine, as well as whisky, with the latter distilled from commercial wash (beer) in the early days until they switched to in-house brewing in 2017 - this is becoming much more common in Tasmanian whisky distilleries, which is great to see! Distillation at Devil's Distillery takes place in a single 1,800-litre copper pot still, with the spirit mostly filled into American oak ex-bourbon casks and often finished in other cask types. This Whisky in Isolation bottling was matured initially in a virgin French oak cask sourced from Bordeaux, and was then re-racked into a third-fill ex-Tennessee whiskey (Jack Daniel's) cask for a further 20-months of secondary maturation. That virgin French oak cask was a first for Hobart Whisky, and is uncommon in Australian whisky in general, and it's obviously quite unusual to mature in virgin oak and then finish in a third-fill American oak cask as opposed to going the other way. This "You Don't Know Jacque" - the name is a nod to both casks, being French and then Jack Daniel's - Hobart Whisky was bottled at 52.5% ABV with a yield of 92 x 500ml bottles. Retail pricing is again $185 AUD, available here from Justin's website. 

Whisky in Isolation "You Don't Know Jacques", Hobart Whisky, 52.5%. Hobart, Tasmania.

Distilled by Devil's Distillery (Hobart Whisky), initially matured in virgin French oak cask, re-racked into third-fill ex-Jack Daniel's cask for 20-months of secondary maturation. Non-chill filtered, natural colour. 92 bottles. 

Colour: Bronze. 

Nose: Sweet, leathery. Tea leaves, tobacco, warm oak, cinnamon-spiced caramel. Warm waffle cones (ice cream cones), vanilla, touch of sugared almonds. Hint of popcorn in the background. 

Texture: Light-medium weight. Oily, sweet, grippy. No heat at all. 

Taste: Spicy oak, leather, over-brewed tea (light tannins) gripping the palate. Stone fruits in syrup, rich tea biscuits (made with golden syrup, currants, and vanilla). Orange peel & dark chocolate heading into the finish. 

Finish: Medium length. More rich tea biscuits, honey-sweetened black tea, and tobacco. Touch of sweet strong coffee, maybe even Vietnamese coffee (sweetened with condensed milk), and more stone fruit to finish. 

Score: 3 out of 5. 

Notes: I can see why Justin called on that refill ex-JD cask to round this one out! The virgin French oak was definitely getting a little big for its britches and would've become too much if it was left to its own devices. Virgin oak is a dangerous game in the Australian climate, virgin French oak even more so, and Hobart Whisky / Devil's Distillery make a very clean new make spirit that could've easily been clobbered by wood. That's the case with a lot of Australian distilleries of course, and a lot of them do get clobbered by wood. There's no shortage of flavour in this Hobart Whisky, it's oak-led of course and lightly tannic, and it's "typically Tasmanian" and also the most conventional of the three whiskies we're looking at here. Very easy drinking too!

Round Three!

Last but not least is a sold-out release from central Victoria's Kinglake Distillery, located in the namesake town around 90-minutes north-east of Melbourne. This is a small distillery using four different types of malted barley in their mash, including 25% peated malt imported from the UK, 4% chocolate malt (heavily roasted barley), 20% a brewer's barley called Vienna Schooner, and the remainder being another brewer's barley that is similar to Maris Otter. This bottling is the sequel to last year's "Mull it Over" release which was also from Kinglake Distillery, and both releases have used the same cask for their final maturation; a mulberry wood cask! Yes, that's right, not oak. That wouldn't be legal by the Scotch whisky regulations, but the regulations here in Australia - if you can even call them regulations - only specify "storage in wood", so essentially any timber vessel can be used for maturation. A few of our distilleries have played around with different types of wood, including redgum wood casks which I've tried previously and was not particularly impressed by. If memory serves that was the only example of non-oak matured "whisky" that I've tried to date, so this one should be interesting! So far nobody else in Australian whisky has played around with mulberry wood, which makes these two Whisky in Isolation bottlings quite unique, and while I've heard of mulberry jam and and mulberry wine, I've never heard of the tree/wood being used. Google tells me that it's mainly used for fenceposts and furniture, so I'm guessing making a whisky barrel from mulberry wood is quite the unusual choice. This mulberry wood cask was sourced from a boutique cooperage in Italy, which was then re-sized and lightly charred here in Australia before being filled with Kinglake's whisky. While the earlier release was matured in a first-fill ex-bourbon cask then finished in that virgin mulberry wood cask for 3-months, this second release "Mull It Over Again" was matured in a second-fill ex-bourbon cask then finished in that same mulberry wood cask (now a second fill virgin oak cask) for just short of 7-months. While "Mull It Over" was bottled at 55.0%, "Mull It Over Again" was bumped slightly to 58.0%, with a yield of 75 x 500ml bottles. Both iterations of this Kinglake bottling are already sold out, which is great to see!

Whisky in Isolation "Mull It Over Again", Kinglake Distillery, 58.0%. Victoria, Australia.

Matured in second-fill ex-bourbon barrel, finished in second-fill virgin mulberry wood (not oak) cask for 6-months. Non-chill filtered, natural colour. 75 bottles. 

Colour: Amber. 

Nose: Sweet & fruity, slightly earthy. Cola cubes / coke bottle lollies, vanilla bean, and a lightly-tropical sugarcane rum-like sweetness. Thick milk chocolate fudge, and an interesting acidic fruitiness - green papaya? 

Texture: Medium-heavy weight. Lightly peaty & effervescent (fizzy), earthy. No heat at all. 

Taste: Light earthy peat, fizzy cola. Tropical fruit, fried bananas in the background. That sugarcane rum sweetness again, and that acidic fruitiness too - green banana & green papaya? A touch of over-ripe pineapple too. 

Finish: Medium-long length. Milk chocolate fudge, over-ripe pineapple, fried banana. Touch of burnt caramel too. 

Score: 3.5 out of 5. 

Notes: It's a little weird, but I like it! There are some slightly odd notes in here that I can only assume came from the Mulberry wood, and this is a lightly peated spirit, which is an odd combination. But it works! This is officially the first non-oak aged spirit that I've actually enjoyed - the previous unnamed experience certainly didn't go as well as this! King Lake do make a good whisky, and it seems to work well in a number of different casks - even crazy ones like a second-fill mulberry wood cask! 

Overall Notes: Three very different drams here! The Launceston is the sweeter of the three and also the most spirit-driven, despite the big wood influence, the Hobart gives the more conventional "Australian whisky" experience, and the King Lake is the wacky & tasty wildcard entry. The common threads in all three are quality spirit, interesting flavour, and easy-drinking experiences that hide their strengths very dangerously. Justin goes to great lengths to make it clear that he doesn't just pick casks from distilleries and bottle them, he goes the extra mile with unique cask treatments that we wouldn't normally see. But he's clearly also good at picking casks, and at picking which distilleries to work with! 

Going into this three-way I expected the "Good Things" from Launceston Distillery to be my clear winner of the three, but it's ended up being the wildcard King Lake with its mad mulberry wood treatment that has won me over. I didn't see that coming!

Cheers!