Old Master Spirits 48 Year Old Armagnac Review!

Another single cask brandy from Old Master Spirits! These guys are really making a habit of releasing well-aged armagnacs and cognacs at extremely reasonable prices, and they certainly don't skimp on quality or value for money. 

This upcoming release from Old Master Spirits is a 48-year old single cask armagnac from producer Chateau Garreau (pictured above) in the Bas Armagnac region of south-western France. Chateau Garreau was officially founded in 1919, although the land has been used for viticulture since the 17th century, and is currently owned by fourth-generation family member Carole Garreau. The Chateau's armagnac stills date back to 1919 and 1932, with this single cask being distilled on the original still that was installed in 1919! Whereas cognac is required to be distilled twice in a pot still, most armagnac is distilled a single time in column stills, but they're nothing like what we whisky geeks know as the huge column stills used in grain whisky production. These armagnac stills are smaller and squatter in shape, and far more rustic in design rather than the giant industrial efficiency of a Coffey still, or a modern column still producing neutral spirit. For further reading I've covered more of the differences between cognac and armagnac here, there's more to it than merely location! 

The Bas Armagnac denomination is the créme de la créme of the official armagnac regions, the equivalent to a grand champagne cognac. Maturation is of course in French oak, but can also include time spent in glass demijohns (large glass bottles), although when giving their spirits an age statement Old Master choose to only include the time spent in oak. Which is not the case with the vast majority of brandy producers and bottlers, who will gladly include the time spent in glass in their "age" statements. This Old Master bottling of 48-year old armagnac was fully matured in a single French oak cask sourced from Gascony, and was aged in Chateau Garreau's unique underground cellar, with earthen walls & floors giving humid & stable conditions that are favourable to long-term maturation. 

This cask strength Armagnac from Chateau Garreau is being released on Thursday 14th of March on the Old Master Spirits website at an absolute bargain price of $269 AUD, in a 500ml bottle at a cask strength of 51.2% ABV. If you're also of a 1974 vintage, that's an absolute bargain for a "birth year" spirit of any description, less than a tenth of a similarly-aged whisky would likely set you back. This armagnac was distilled from Baco & Ugni Blanc grapes in 1974, and was aged in a single French oak cask for a whopping 48-years before being bottled in late 2022. It is entirely naturally presented, being cask strength, natural colour, and non-chill filtered, which is far from the norm with brandy of any description. Thanks to some shipping delays and other considerations it is being released this week, with only 152 bottles available. Not only that, but this is the only armagnac that Old Master plan to release in 2024. Don't sleep on this one folks! Let's see what it tastes like, shall we?

Colour: Bronze. 

Nose: Rich, sweet, and savoury. My kind of dessert! Dried leafy herbs (sage & rosemary), sweet juicy sultanas, and rich spicy oak giving cinnamon & clove. A little ginger ice cream on sticky date pudding. Sweet crispy pastries baked with stone fruit and sugar crystals. 

Texture: Light-medium weight. Rich, silky, sweet & savoury, lightly astringent (drying). No heat whatsoever. 

Taste: Rich & densely flavoured with more dried leafy herbs, more wood spices, and more sticky date pudding. Silky toffee sauce adding sweetness. More stone fruit pastries, some roasted hazelnut & chestnut behind that. Bitter dark chocolate comes through heading into the finish. 

Finish: Long length. Quite possibly the longest finish I've found in a brandy to date! More dried leafy herbs, a touch of bitter orange oil, soft leather, and dried stone fruit (apricot & cherry). Dark chocolate with that herbal note carrying through to the end. 

Score: 4 out of 5. 

Notes: Just delicious. Remarkably easy-drinking, but without sacrificing texture or length, particularly on the finish. Brandy doesn't often come close to the texture, length, or complexity of a malt whisky, but these Old Master Spirits bottlings certainly do! This might be one occasion where I'd actually consider having a cigar with this armagnac, which is not my thing at all, particularly with whisky. But something tells me that it would be a fantastic flavour experience with a brandy of this quality. Then again, it's a 48-year old armagnac, so let's just leave it alone like the producers did! It's a fantastic experience on it's own anyway, with a great balance of sweet & savoury to spicy & fruity. Really enjoying those herbal notes as well, which I don't recall getting in an armagnac to this extent before. Great stuff!

Thanks to Deni & his brother in law for the sample for this review, and for continuing to bring us these delicious brandies & other spirits at such reasonable prices!

Cheers!